Store jewelry or other small keepsakes in a handmade Rose Heart Trinket Box made of resin!
Trinket boxes are a great way to keep your favorite jewelry items, small keepsakes, or even offic supplies all in one place while also being an eye-catching piece of decor. This Resin Rose Heart Trinket Box is one of my newest creations, and I love how it turned out. It's a classy piece of decor to keep on a nightstand or desk, and it would be a beautiful gift to share for Valentine's Day or anniversaries. No matter what level your resin skills are at, you can definitely create this trinket box with confidence. I love how this sparkling, heart-shaped rose trinket box turned out, and I hope you feel inspired to give it a try!
New to resin? Be sure to check out Resin 101: Getting Started with Resin!
To make your own Resin Rose Heart Trinket Box, you will need these supplies:
*Save 10% on resin supplies when you shop Polytek with code AFM
SAFETY FIRST: Before getting started, wear disposable gloves, protect your workspace, and be sure to work in a well-ventilated area!
Prepare 6 oz of Amazing Clear Cast epoxy according to package directions. Pour in equal parts of resin and hardener to a large mixing cup. Slowly stir the resin together with a stir stick for two minutes or until combined. If the resin looks cloudy or has any streaks running through it, you need to keep stirring it until it becomes clear.
Split the resin equally into three mixing cups:
- Cup 1: Keep this resin as-is - clear, no mix-ins.
- Cup 2: Add a generous amount of red glitter. For best results, I recommend using a mix of both fine and chunky glitter. Stir well until fully combined. Add more, if necessary.
- Cup 3: Add a small drop of red resin dye. This is a concentrated dye, so a little bit goes a long way! Stir the resin until the dye is fully combined. Carefully add more, if necessary.
First, fill the mold for the base of the trinket box. Pour about half of the glitter resin mix on top of the middle section of the mold. The resin will move itself down the sides on its own, so just cover this top section first.
Give the resin a minute or two, and then spritz the resin with alcohol to remove any surface bubbles.
Next, pour about ½-⅓ of the clear resin on top of the glittered resin, right in the center of the mold. See how the glittery resin is running evenly down the sides? That's what you're going for here.
Again, let the resin rest for a minute or two and then spritz the resin with alcohol to remove any surface bubbles.
Allow the air bubbles to rise to the top and spritz the resin with alcohol to remove any surface bubbles. You may need to spritz it a few times over the next 30 minutes or so.
If the resin still feels flexible or tacky, it may just need more time to cure. Let the pieces sit in a warm, flat area to cure for a few hours (or days) to completely harden.
Now the jar can be filled with any of your favorite trinkets; like jewelry, small keepsakes, treats, or even office items like paperclips! Trinket boxes are a lot of fun to make, and can be customized to fit any style or personality with a simple change of colors and additions to the resin. Because of this, these boxes make fantastic gifts!!
Filling the lid mold is a similar process, but the order of resin pours will be a bit different. First, add about half of the glittery resin to the lid, and use the stir stick to spread it around in a thin layer. Spritz the resin with alcohol to remove air bubbles.
Next, pour the rest of the red dyed resin in the center of the mold. You don't need to spread this resin around. Spritz the resin with alcohol to remove air bubbles.
Pour the rest of the clear resin into the center of the mold. Let the resin rest for a minute or two, and then spritz with alcohol one more time.
Last, but not least, fill the mold up the rest of the way with the remaining glittered resin. Be careful to not overfill the mold. Let the resin sit in the mold for a few minutes, then spritz with 91% alcohol to remove any surface bubbles.
Some air bubbles take more time to rise to the surface, so come back every 10 minutes or so for the next hour to spritz with alcohol to remove them. Leave both the lid and base molds to cure in an undisturbed, well-ventilated area for at least 24 hours.
Now for my favorite step in the process: demolding! You will know that the resin is cured when it is no longer tacky to the touch and easily pulls away from the edges of the molds. Carefully remove the cured base and lid from the molds. Trim away any excess resin with scissors or a craft knife. Sand down rough corners or edges, if necessary, and bring back the shine with clear spray sealant.
Place the lid on top of the base to make sure it fits. The resin can still be pliable after demolding, which can warp the base a little. Or if the lid was over-filled, you may have some fitting issues.
For an over-filling problem, gently sand down any problem areas until you have a good fit. For pliable resin, fit the pieces together, and then gently take them apart to finish curing. If they finish curing while the lid is still on, the pieces will stick together - possibly permanently.
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