Get festive this holiday season with custom Polymer Clay Christmas Sweater Earrings!
Everyone is always talking about the sweaters they are when the weather is cold, and even more-so during the holidays. However, maybe this year, people will be talking about the fashionable sweaters that you are wearing as earrings instead! These Christmas Sweater Earrings are made of polymer clay and adorned with a deer (or moose) pattern applied using a custom silkscreen stencil made with an Ikonart kit! These earrings are so fun and simple to make, and will definitely be a fantastic gift to share with family and friends.
To make your own Polymer Clay Christmas Sweater Earrings, you will need these supplies:
- Polymer Clay - red or green
- Christmas Sweater Patterns (for personal use only)
- Sweater Clay Cutter
- Ikonart Custom Stencil Kit
- Squeegee
- Baking Mat or Ceramic Tile
- Clay Roller or Clay Rolling Machine
- Acrylic Paint - white
- Gloss Glaze or UV Resin
- 2 10mm Jump Rings
- 2 Earring Hooks
- Jewelry Pliers
*Save 15% on Ikonart supplies when you shop with code AFM15
Printables, designs, and cut files from Artsy-Fartsy Mama are for personal use only. You may use these files for personal projects, but you may not sell them. If you'd like to share this project digitally, share a link to this post/website only. Do not share a direct link to the file.
To make a stencil, you need to start with a printed design. Download the Christmas Sweater Pattern designs (for personal use only) and make sure to print the design* as dark as possible on either inkjet or laser Ikonart Printer Film.
Set up the Ikonart exposure stand by following the directions included in the kit. Ikonart Stencil Film is light sensitive, so be careful to keep it out of sunlight and bright lights before exposure! Cut the film to the same size or slightly larger than the design print.
Lay the piece of film down on the base of the stand with the textured side facing UP. Place the printed design on top of the stencil film, making sure it's right-side up. This means that if there are words in your design, you should be able to read them.
Lastly, place the clear exposure sheet (found in the stencil film pack) on top and press it down well to seal the design tight against the stencil film. Turn the exposure light on and expose the film for 30-35 seconds.
*I often place smaller designs, like this one, on printouts with other designs. It's a great way to use up film scraps and create multiple stencils at once!
The final step in the stencil-making process is to washout, or rinse, the stencils. Clip the exposed stencil film to the Ikonart clipboard with the shiny side (carrier sheet) touching the clipboard. Use the a sink sprayer to rinse the stencil film with warm water until the design shows through and becomes completely clear. The washout process shouldn't take more than 3 minutes.
Gently blot excess water off the the stencil, and hang or lay flat to dry for about 45 minutes. When the stencil is dry, you shouldn't see any water spots or discoloration. Once completely dried, place the it back on the exposure stand and expose it again for at least 2 minutes without the clear cover sheet on top. This extra exposure time will increase the durability of the stencil so you can get as much use out of it as possible.
Use a permanent marker and write "back" on the carrier sheet (shiny side) on the back of the stencil. This helps later when you put the carrier sheet and the stencil back together when you are done using it.
Condition the clay by kneading it with your hands until it becomes soft and pliable. Use a clay roller with rings (or line 2 craft sticks parallel to each other with the clay in between) to evenly flatten the clay to a 3mm thickness.
Tip: If you work directly on a baking mat or ceramic tile, you don't have to worry about transferring your project when it's time to bake the clay. This also helps reduce the chances of you accidentally ruining your project in the process.
Remove the carrier sheet from the back of the stencil and place it over the clay. Rub it down gently with your fingers or use the roller to make sure the stencil is pressed down well and that there aren't any air bubbles trapped underneath.
Add a small line of acrylic paint at the edge of the stencil. Use a squeegee to gently pull the paint across to the opposite edge. Don't press hard, just skim over the top of the stencil. Scrape the excess paint away and put it back into the paint bottle.
Slowly lift the stencil up to reveal the painted pattern underneath. If you see any missed spots while peeling the stencil away, carefully lay the stencil back down and add a little more paint over the area.
If everything looks good as you get to the end of the stencil, remove the stencil completely. Let the paint dry on the clay before moving on to the next step (don't worry - it doesn't take long). Wash the stencil well following the instructions below.
Washing Stencils:
For best results, wash stencils while the paint is still wet. To wash your stencil so that it can be used again and again, first get the clipboard wet so your stencil doesn't stick to it. Place the stencil on the clipboard with the textured side up, and lightly rub the stencil under cold running water to remove all the paint.
Do not rub or scrub the adhesive side of the stencil, and NEVER use anything other than water to wash the stencils. To prevent the stencil from breaking down, don't ever leave the stencils to soak.
Remove the stencil from the clipboard and lay it down with the adhesive side up. While the stencil is still wet, place the carrier sheet onto the stencil so that the word “BACK” is readable. Hang or lay the stencil flat to dry completely.
Cut two sweaters (per earring) using the sweater clay cutter. Place the cutter over the clay and press it straight down, and then gently pull the cutter straight up. If the clay stays down, leave it there. If it comes up with the cutter, be careful how you remove it. Poking through the top to push the clay out can leave dents or misshape the piece.
Here's a few tricks & tips for cutting clay that have worked for me:
- Place a piece of plastic wrap over the clay first, and then cut the clay.
- Dip the cutter in corn starch or talcum powder before cutting
- Your clay or workspace might be too warm. Put the clay in the fridge or freezer to cool it down before cutting.
Carefully peel away the excess clay, leaving the pieces in place (I had extra space on my clay, so I cut some other earrings at the same time). It's ok if the edges look a little rough. Just make sure to remove all of the excess clay.
Use a toothpick or a small circle cutter to make holes at the top end of the earring pieces to be able to easily connect them to the earring hooks later.
Preheat your oven and bake the earring pieces. Most polymer clays are usually baked at 275º for 15 minutes per quarter inch thickness, but I usually bake. mine for at least 30 minutes (refer to your specific clay packaging directions). Once baked, let the clay cool completely before handling.
Use a fine sandpaper to clean up the edges of the earring pieces. To give the earrings a shiny and professional-looking finish, you can apply a coat of gloss glaze or UV Resin to the surface with a toothpick. This extra finish will also keep the painted design protected to keep the earrings looking good as new for years to come.
Aren't these tiny sweater earrings so fun and festive? I love how easy the Ikonart stencils are to use and how they can make your projects go from great to GRAND. The tiny sweater pattern just adds so much to these earrings.
I used the second stencil to make a pair of green sweater earrings as well. Repeat the process the same way as the red sweater earrings and bake according to package directions.
I can't say enough how much I love these sweater earrings, and I could NOT have applied that pattern without the help of my Ikonart kit. These earrings are such a fun winter and holiday accessory, and are an even better gift idea! If you try making some of these Polymer Clay Christmas Sweater Earrings, I would love to see them! Leave me a comment, or tag a photo on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram! #AFMcrafts
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